The collar is made from 3 different pieces, and it disappears into the shoulder seams. If you scroll down, you can find detailed instructions for drawing such a collar.
I was struggling a bit to find a suitable name for this collar. The "three-part semi peter pan collar" is a very accurate, yet rather unattractive name. The "Mary Darling collar" (named after another character from the Peter Pan books) sounds a lot better!
Linda also supplied the gorgeous fabrics I used for this dress. Both are from the new French brand Atelier Brunette. Not only does Atelier Brunette have great color combinations and gorgeous prints, the fabrics are also really finely woven and light (almost like voile) and come at 150 cm (55") width. I'm a huge fan!
Pattern: Hanami dress
Would you like some free Atelier Brunette fabrics? Perhaps you can buy them with the €50 Volksfaden voucher Linda is generously raffling off. Please use the Rafflecopter widget below to enter. And yes, the GA is open internationally (I know a few US readers who would love to get their hands on some Aterlier Brunette ;-)). Fifty euros is currently worth about $65 - that's a pretty sweet prize, isn't it?
a Rafflecopter giveaway
In the tutorial below, I explain how you can draw and make a Mary Darling collar, to fit any regular bodice pattern. It is really easy!
A. Making the pattern
1. Take your bodice front pattern, and trace the seam allowance of the neck line and shoulders.
Are you using a pattern which does not include seam allowances? Then simply add SA at neck line and shoulders.
2. Next, mark where you would like the collar pieces to meet each other.
3. Decide on the desired width of the collar pieces. Mark this width as illustrated below.
I went for a slim collar: just 1 inch (2,5 cm), but you can make it as wide as you like. You don't have to include seam allowance yet.
4. Next, draw the collar pieces as illustrated below. Try to make the curves more or less symmetrical.
5. Then, take a piece of tracing paper, and trace both collar pieces as illustrated below.
Make sure to trace them separately, so that you have space to add seam allowance in step 6.
6. Add seam allowance at the outer edges as illustrated below. Name your pieces, so that you cannot mix them up later on.
Tip: use presser foot width for SA - it makes it easier to stitch the collar perfectly in step 9.
7. Your pattern pieces are ready now. Yaay!
Now you just have to cut them from your fabric.
- Middle piece: cut 2 on the fold from your main fabric, and 1 from interfacing
- Left/right piece: cut 4 (2 mirrored pairs) from your main fabric, and 2 (mirrored) pieces from interfacing.
8. Reinforce the three top collar pieces with the interfacing.
9. Put top and bottom pieces with right sides together, and stitch the curved edges, using the seam allowance you added in step 6.
10. Reduce the seam allowance to some 3 mm (1/8").
11. Turn the pieces right side out, and press carefully.
12. Pin the collar pieces onto the bodice, and baste stitch them near the neck line edge. Important: make sure the different pieces meet each other at the neck line's seam allowance, so that there is no gap between them in the finished bodice.
That's it! Now you can finish the bodice according to the instructions of the pattern you use.